“We set out to
reconnoiter. As we round
Huey Spire, a great wall grasps our eyes and casts its spell.
We move closer. The
closer we get the more beautiful it becomes – simple, elegant, yet
gentle. We continue over the
glacier almost to its base. Its
power continues to attract us. Not
surprising – ‘
’.” (Sandy Bill, AAJ,
was as exquisite a rock as we had seen.
I had dreamed of finding a perfect 1,000 foot long A1 crack.
It was here. I made a
mental note to be sure to follow the center of the nine parallel cracks
I counted on the upper face. The
climb looked perfect in every way. I
made this photograph.
“When Tom and I joined
on the summit I remember being very moved.
Tears came to my eyes. During
the past two days each of us had entertained fantasies of climbing
endlessly into the clear sky. Regretfully,
the climb did end; perhaps it was just as well.
It was still early in the day and we were able to indulge
ourselves for an hour or two on the summit.”
(Jim McCarthy, Ascent, 1969)
“Located in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Northwest
Territories of Canada,
is famous for the route which ascends the southwest face (just to the
left of the prow etched by sunlight and shadow).
The Frost/McCarthy/Bill route is one of the finest rock climbs in
the world and has attracted international attention since its first
ascent in 1968.” (Chick
Scott, Pushing the Limits: The
Story of Canadian Mountaineering)
LOTUS FLOWER TOWER,
Fairy Meadow, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains, Selwyn Range,
Northwest Territories, Canada. Ascent
of the southeast face by Sandy Bill, Jim McCarthy, and Tom Frost, August